• Pellegrino Artusi is an emblematic figure in Italian culture, a character who, although he was not a professional chef, managed to transform Italian cuisine and raise it to the status of a national symbol.
Through his book "Science in the kitchen and the art of eating well" (Science in the kitchen and the art of eating well), Artusi managed to create a culinary mosaic that became the foundation of modern Italian cuisine. First published in 1891, the book had a profound impact on the cultural unification of Italy, becoming a ubiquitous fixture in Italian homes.
Pellegrino Artusi was born in 1820 in Forlimpopoli, a small town in the Emilia-Romagna region. Growing up in a wealthy family, Artusi had the opportunity to cultivate a variety of interests, including literature, philosophy and gastronomy. However, it was only in the years after the unification of Italy, at a rather advanced age – 71 years – and on the recommendation of his friends, that he decided to publish his cookbook that would forever change the face of Italian gastronomy.
Artusi was self-taught, and his passion for the kitchen manifested itself particularly during his retirement from public life, after consolidating his career in commerce and finance. Although he was a gourmand and a careful food critic, he was not a chef in the true sense of the word, considering himself more of an organizer and a taster.
He tested his recipes through his chef Francesco Ruffilli and his housekeeper Marietta Sabatini. Artusi's time was spent between the office and the kitchen, something highlighted by Marietta Sabatini in a famous description: "his life was a continuous alternation between study and kitchen, between pens and pans." This unconventional team led to the creation of recipes that became the foundation of Italian gastronomic culture.
Science in the kitchen is the art of eating well – a symbol of Italian unity
At the time at which Science in the kitchen was published, Italy was a young state, newly unified in 1861. Although political unification had been achieved, the country remained culturally and linguistically fragmented. Each region had its own culinary traditions, dialects, and ways of life.
Artusi intuited the importance of a national cuisine for the consolidation of Italian identity. Until then, Italian cookbooks were intended for the aristocracy and were heavily influenced by French cuisine, being full of sophisticated recipes inaccessible to the majority of the population. Instead, Artusi's book was aimed at the growing middle class, a segment of the population that, while aspiring to aristocratic elegance, preferred traditional recipes that were accessible and adapted to everyday life.
Written in standard, accessible Italian rather than regional dialects, Artusi's book had a major impact on the creation of a common gastronomic language. And through his warm and friendly tone, Artusi managed to create a special bond with his readers. His direct and humorous formulations are reflected in phrases such as: "Don't think for a second that I'd be so picky as to teach you how to make meatballs", thus showing modesty and closeness to ordinary readers.
Artusi's recipes - From local to national
The first edition of the book contained 475 recipes, most of which were inspired by the regions of Emilia-Romagna and Tuscany, where Artusi spent most of his life. No publisher was interested, and Artusi paid for the first printing out of pocket, dedicating the work to his two collaborators and his two cats. But in a few years, Science in the kitchen took off, selling tens of thousands of copies. The book's success led to a steady expansion of its content as readers sent in their own regional recipes. By Artusi's death in 1911, the number of recipes had grown to 790, reflecting a culinary diversity from all over Italy.
The recipes range from the simplest, such as seasonal vegetable dishes, to more elaborate dishes, such as game meats or desserts. A notable example of the integration of culinary diversity is the inclusion of a couscous recipe, brought to Italy by Jewish communities. This underlines Artusi's open and modern vision of cuisine, which did not exclude foreign influences.
The scientific and medical dimension of the book
Another key aspect of the success of Artusi's book is its scientific component. Its title already suggests a more academic approach to cooking. In the 19th century, in Italy, as in other parts of Europe, a sanitary revolution was in full swing. People were becoming increasingly concerned with hygiene, health and nutrition. Artusi was influenced by these ideas and added to his book numerous tips on how to eat healthily, how to follow a balanced diet and how to use ingredients according to the seasons.
Although he was not a doctor or a scientist, Artusi gathered information from scientific sources of the time, including from close friends such as the physiologist Paul Mantegazza. He infused this knowledge into the pages of the book, giving readers practical advice on how certain foods can influence health and how they can be prepared to maximize their benefits.
The legacy of Pellegrino Artusi
Today, Science in the kitchen is the art of eating well remains a symbol of Italian cuisine. Artusi's influence on Italian gastronomic culture is deep and lasting. In many Italian homes, the book is still a basic reference, being passed down from generation to generation. In addition to his role in popularizing recipes, Artusi helped define an Italian culinary identity that respects both tradition and diversity.
Pellegrino Artusi was much more than a simple cookbook author; he was a pioneer of Italian gastronomic culture, a man of culture who saw in the kitchen a means of unifying a young nation. Its legacy continues to inspire chefs, historians and foodies alike, cementing its status as "Dante of Italian cuisine".
Article and photo sources: Who is Pellegrino Artusi, the inventor of Italian cuisine; Pellegrino Artusi; Carlo Petrini: I present to you Artusi, l'uomo che ha cucinato l'Italia; This Book Created Italian Food as We Know It.
Article written by Gabriela Dan, Editor-in-Chief Arta Albă
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