Classic Panettone, the traditional dessert of Italy and the uncrowned king of pastries.
Master Iginio Massari's recipe
Iginio Massari was born in Brescia (Italy), on August 29, 1942. The son of a cook mother and a canteen director father, his first childhood memories capture him admiring colors, shapes and aromas...
At the age of 16, after working for a few months in a bakery in the center of his hometown, he received the impulse of a better knowledge of the field and directed his eyes to the neighboring country, Switzerland, more precisely to the French cantons, where he would gain his first experiences in the field confectionery and chocolate shop.
Back in Italy, he continued his personal and professional development, together with great personalities of the field, and in 1971 he opened his own Confectionery, "Pasticceria Veneto".
Today, as much appreciated as he is feared, Iginio Massari is recognized worldwide for the superiority of his talent, to which is added iron discipline and human dedication, and, last but not least, his heterogeneous culture and honesty.
Winner, since 1964, of more than 300 national and international competitions, awards and recognitions, Iginio Massari is also one of the founders, in 1996, and the current owners of the Food Training and Specialization School, CAST ALIMENTI from Brescia.
"A recipe is not enough to make a special product. The use of the best quality ingredients is fundamental. That is precisely why, in my training courses, I do not teach the students recipes, but teach them how to build them.
Keep in mind that even just using a different yeast will lead to different end results.
Emblematic, for example, is the case of eggs, which currently increase their volume by 35% less than in the past, due to the stronger proteins they contain. Let's not talk about the typology and quality of flours, which, in recent years, have changed significantly, thanks to the mills that produce them with different technologies.
In fact, a good natural yeast derives from good flours and good flours derive from a balanced mixture of various types of wheat. That is why it is very difficult to code leavening, as it changes depending on the gluten content of each type of flour.
Let's not forget another aspect: the product must be adequate to the customers' requirements. And I, every year, modify my own recipe, increasing or decreasing the amount of salt, fruit, etc. Only the amount of yolk remains constant because I found that this aspect is appreciated by the consumer.
So let's not forget that the type and quality of the ingredients used are fundamental and we must be flexible, which means that even the recipes of the most famous confectioners are not written in stone, for eternity." – Iginio massari
Panettone Classic, working method with two kneading
With these quantities, 2 panettones of 1 kg are obtained
FIRST DOUGH (night dough)
Ingredients
125 g – Natural yeast (Maya)
400 g – Flour 000 or 480
130 g – Sugar
100 g – Soft butter
140 g – Water
120 g - Yolk
Prepare
1. The amount of natural Yeast (Yeast / Sourdough), preserved la cold, se shape round, with hand, (for quantities May mari They will model May fines pieces).
Se apply a cross cut la part superior and se leave to ferment, in a bowl, covered with cloth in or cotton, in room of fermentation, until it Duplicate the volume.
full process of making and using natural Yeast (Yeast), are here.
2. Add in cuve the mixer with bushy arms or of the mixer (in this case se va use range, which tie up May good soft doughs): water, la temperature of 22-24°C, sugar and flour.
agitator about 16 min., until se form a homogeneous dough.
3. Add the soft butter, the mayo (left initially la leavened) and the yolk.
For a May good incorporation, you can join and mixa, before adding to the tub, the soft butter with the yolk.
4. Knead the dough until this va had a shiny surface, With care ca this not to become very glossy, respectively not to obtain an excessively kneaded dough.
Kneading should not take long May mult out of 25 min. if se use a mixer with bushy arms and 60 beats / min. (this time may vary depending on the type of mixer used and its working speed).
The dough is ready then When on its surface appear foreigner mari of air, which indicates that the gluten network is well formed and that the dough is in PHASE optimal work.
5. The dough thus obtained va fi PUT în Camera leavening, la temperature of 26 – 28°C, and it will stay here time of 12 – 14 hours, until its volume se it triples.
If you don't have enough experience or Are to fisure that the fermentation process is complete, put a piece separately from dough, in a graduated container, for a can check May easily the moment in which its volume tripled.
Careful! Using a dough that has not risen sufficiently in the first phase will slow down the next rising phase by a time equal to 3 times the reduced/absent time of the first rising.
For example: if the first dough will be used 1 hour before its volume has tripled, even if the 12 hours of leavening have passed, you will have to extend the time for the final leavening of the product by 3 hours.
SECOND DOUGH (dough of the day)
Ingredients
The first leavened dough (having tripled the initial volume)
100 g – Flour 000 or 480
130 g – Egg yolk
100 g – Sugar
25 g – Honey
150 g – Soft butter
8 g – Salt
70 g – Water
200 g – Raisins
150 g – Candied orange cubes
50 g – Candied cedar
2,5 g – Vanilla powder (Not Vanillin…!)
2,5 g – Grated lemon peel
2,5 g – Grated orange peel
Prepare
1. added în cuve mixer the first leavened dough, the flour and flavors (Vanilla, Shell of lemon and of orange) and mix approx. 15 min., until When the surface of the dough becomes shiny.
2. Add sugar, honey and o half from the amount of yolk; mix until you get a homogeneous dough with a shiny surface.
3. unity the salt with a small part from the remaining yolk and added în vat. Mix again to homogenize and then add the soft (but not melted) butter, the rest of the amount of yolk and the water.
continue to knead and MAKE yourself în during the mixing process that the dough has a consistency Hi, smelling-l correct with an addition of the water de about 70-80g.
4. Combine the Raisins, Cedar and Orange Cubes, add 20 g of melted butter over them (amount taken from the total amount of butter provided in the recipe) and homogenize the mixture well; then add it to the dough and continue mixing for 4 min., so that the added fruits are evenly distributed throughout the dough.
The mixing operation is ideally carried out with a mixer with tufting arms with a minimum of 60 beats/min., and this should not exceed, in total, 40 min. (ideally it would be 35 min.).
5. The obtained dough is divided into pieces of 1050 gr to obtain final baked products of 1 kg.
After portioning, the pieces of dough will be shaped by hand, round, on the work table and then they will be introduced and left to rest in the leavening room, at 28 °C, for 40-60 min.
6. After resting, redo the round modeling of the pieces, on the table, forming the pieces of dough well and as round as possible.
The pieces formed in this way will be placed in the paper baking forms, specific to the Panettone product, but not before repeating the round formation on the table once more (procedure used in the case of larger quantities and respectively the formation of a large number of pieces). Through this repetitive forming operation, the dough is helped to rise vertically.
7. The forms with the pieces of dough, shaped round, will be introduced into the Proofing Chamber, at a temperature of 28°C, and will remain here for approx. 6 – 8 hours, until the dough rises close to the edge of the form.
The fermentation time cannot be reduced. The leavening, in this case, requires more time, being a natural leavening, which depends a lot on the temperature and humidity, the strength of the dough and, above all, the quality of the raw materials used.
8. After the final leavening, the products will be prepared for baking, as follows:
1. they can either be covered on the surface with Amaretto Glaze, on which heat-resistant granulated sugar and almonds are sprinkled;
2. or they can be indented in the shape of a cross, with a knife with a thin blade; after indenting, a piece of butter (the size of a walnut) will be added in the center.
Amaretto glaze
Quantities for 1 Panettone
Ingredients
75 g – Raw almonds
25 g – Armelline
50 g – Raw hazelnuts
300 g – Sugar
10 g – Cocoa
10 g – Corn flour
10 g – Corn starch
50 g – Egg white
Armellina or Armelline – Core of Peach or Apricot kernels. It is used in gastronomy for its bitter taste.
Glaze preparation
1. Finely grind all the dry parts in a cutter.
2. Then add them to the bowl of a mixer, together with the egg white, and mix with the medium whisk, at medium speed, until you homogenize the composition well.
Careful!
If the Glaze prepared was too hard – you will notice after baking, when the products will be turned face down to consolidate the shape, that the applied glaze comes off the surface of the product.
If the Glaze prepared was too soft – you will notice that the products have become wet, along with the paper forms, and after 8-10 days of baking, mold forms may appear.
Baking times
Baking will be done with the Chuberul of the oven closed!
Panettone 500 gr – Temp. 175 °C – 33 minutes,
Panettone 1000 gr – Temp. 175 °C – 52 minutes,
Panettone 1500 gr – Temp. 170 °C – 70 minutes,
Panettone 2000 gr – Temp. 170 °C – 90 minutes,
Panettone 3000 gr – Temp. 160 °C – 130 minutes,
Panettone 5000 gr – Temp. 155 °C – 195 minutes.
Editor's note: Chuberul – Professional ovens are equipped with this device that regulates the closing or opening of some exhaust valves in the baking chamber. By opening, it allows the evacuation from the baking chamber of: the moisture resulting from the baking process but also part of the existing heat.
Working with the open Chuber, the products, after baking, result drier and by closing it, the products will be baked in the environment with the emanating humidity.
The cooling
After baking, the Panettone is left face down for 12-14 hours to cool and stabilize its shape and volume. For this phase there are special supports for holding and fixing the pieces face down.
After cooling, the Panettone is packed in appropriate and tightly closed bags, so that air does not enter the packaging, which could accelerate the aging of the product.
CLAIMS
The ideal weight to obtain a Panettone with a special appearance is 1 kg.
A baked Panettone will have a volume 5 times higher than the original volume, depending on the amount of fruit added to the dough.
A Glazed Panettone (with Amaretto Glaze, applied to the surface) will develop more when baking, because this glaze creates a barrier that helps to increase the volume of the product.
For the Panettone Milanese (the one with the cross-shaped cut and the butter applied in the center):
– baking will be done at a temperature 10 °C higher than that for a glazed Panettone;
- after 5 minutes of baking, take it out of the oven and gently lift the 4 corners formed by the cross-cutting, an operation called "scraping", after which continue baking.
The recommendations of Master Iginio Massari
To make complex doughs based on natural yeast (yeast), the latter must be a mature yeast and rigorously prepared before use; a mature yeast should triple its volume in 4 hours, at a temperature of about 26-28 °C. See the entire process of making and using, are here.
Careful! When the doses of the ingredients are very low, the doughs leaven with greater difficulty, thus increasing the leavening times compared to the situation of using larger amounts of ingredients.
In these cases, higher fermentation temperatures by 1 or 2 degrees, respectively 28-30 °C, are required.
Many times, slowing down or speeding up the fermentation of the doughs - from the preparation phase of the first dough - is conferred by the percentage, increased or reduced, of the yeast used. Using larger amounts of yeast will result in lighter doughs with faster fermentation times, but the product will dry out faster over time, be less soft and fragrant.
With less yeast, you can make doughs with an extraordinary taste at the end. If, however, the yeast (mayo) was not properly prepared, several more hours will be needed for leavening, and more than that it will be possible to obtain doughs that will tend to harden, which will later create great difficulties in the formation of the second dough.
These inconveniences mainly depend on flours, which lately are increasingly "stronger" in terms of the amount and resistance of the gluten contained. Because of this, the sugar will be consumed more quickly, thus creating many inconveniences for the final products.
The minimum and maximum indicative amounts of natural yeast (yeast) used per 1 kg of flour are:
- minimum - between 180 / 200 gr
- maximum - 500 gr.
A good dough is obtained, without much trouble, with 220-250 gr. natural yeast (yeast) / 1 kg of flour.
Careful! If the natural yeast (yeast) does not have the optimal characteristics and is not well prepared, the final product will have a reduced organoleptic value and many storage problems.
A "sweet" journey through the Lombard provinces of Italy, to discover the most famous traditional desserts of Italy, among which are the Panettones of Milan, presented by the Master of Master Italian Confectioners, Iginio Massari, in the video below:
sources: www.igniomassari.it ; http://www.dissapore.com/ricette/panettone-iginio-massari/
