• Although the universe of Italian bread is apparently not as vast as that of pasta, local bakery varieties have established themselves globally due to their undeniable flavor and unique characteristics depending on the area.
If you've traveled to Italy, you've probably noticed that the bread offered at the table differs from region to region (and sometimes from village to village). This is because the Italian tradition of bread baking is older than that of pasta making, and like pasta, each region values its own specialty bread.
Dating back to the time of Ancient Rome, the popularity of bread in Italy has not faded over the centuries. And with the development of civilization and technological progress, new types of bread appeared, with varied ingredients, distinct preparation methods and different leavening agents. Thanks to the special taste, many of these have traveled around the world, pampering lovers of Italian bakery products and giving them the pleasure of enjoying them whenever they want.
Focaccia bread
Originally from the Liguria region, focaccia is one of the most famous Italian breads. More and more often, the term "focaccia" is automatically associated with the famous "street food" Genoese, known throughout northern Italy. However, there are many varieties of focaccia, often this term is also used to indicate sweet products.
The origins of the Genoese focaccia ("fügássa") are lost in the mists of time: in the 11th century it was consumed in churches and at weddings. In the XNUMXth century, focaccia became the food of Genoese dockers, who ate it at XNUMX o'clock sharp, together with a good glass of white wine from Coronata. The satiety provided by this snack allowed the dockers to skip their lunch break if necessary.
One dish - many versions
The real one Genoese flat bread it is prepared with a lot of extra virgin olive oil and no less than four stages of fermentation, which gives it its typical fluffy texture. Focaccia with olives, onions or cherry tomatoes and oregano are the three classic versions of the Genoese focaccia. But the whole of Liguria is dotted with a number of variants, all to be enjoyed: focaccia di Recco, filled with cheese growth or stracchino; or focaccia di Voltri, the crispy version of the Genoese focaccia.
Beyond the Tuscan border, they are famous scones from Forte dei Marmi, basically the version cute of the Genoese one. In Versilia, as far as Livorno, it is also widespread cecina cone focaccia, the Tuscan equivalent of the famous Ligurian recipe prepared with chickpeas.
Already in Piedmont, the term "focaccia" begins to encompass several varieties. If in Novi Ligure and in the border area, focaccia from Novi is almost identical to focaccia from Genoa, things are changing in the alpine valleys. In Susa, for example, focaccia is sweet. Its surface is sprinkled with a layer of sugar that partially caramelizes during baking, giving it that typical light crunchy texture that matches the softness of the dough.
Garden Slippers
The story of ciabatta is even more interesting. Just a few decades ago, four-time rally champion Arnaldo Cavallari developed a new bread recipe that eventually became slipper. Cavallari struggled for weeks to determine the optimal fermentation time and hydration, motivated by one contention: He was tired of his fellow Italians who were crazy about the French baguette.
Born into a family of millers, Cavallari ended his illustrious racing career in the early 1980s. He returned to his hometown of Adria in northern Italy, where his family owned a mill. At that time, the baguette of the French, which had already appeared for over a century, had gained a lot in popularity, conquering bread lovers with its simple recipe of yeast, flour, water and salt.
In 1982, Cavallari called on two bakers to join him in developing a basic Italian bread to rival the French baguette. His team knew the level of hydration the flour could handle, which was imperative because Cavallari's ciabatta was going to push the limits of using a very wet dough.
Cavallari thus uses olive oil to keep the dough elastic enough to stretch without breaking, while providing a bread with a crispy crust and a soft, crumbly core that immediately caught on with local restaurants and bakeries. By 1985, ciabatta loaves were being sold in Marks & Spencer, and within about a decade, Italian ciabatta licensed to be produced in 11 countries.
Flatbread
"The national dish of the people of Romagna", this is how Giovanni Pascoli described it piadina - Or piadina – in the marginal notes of his book "New Poems" (1909). Indeed, this specialty is ubiquitous in the menu of the people of Romagna, in thousands of variations: in the Cesena, Forlì and Ravenna areas it is thick and soft, while in the Rimini area it is thin and slightly larger.
As often happens, its origins are lost in the mists of time: the first official documents attesting to the piadina date from 1371, when Cardinal Anglico de Grimoard mentions it in his work "Descriptio Romandiolae", but it seems that similar variants already existed on the menu of the citizens of the Roman Empire. The name actually comes from Latin plate, which indicated a long, narrow plate.
According to the recipe reported by Mariette di Casa Artusi (association inspired by the figure of Pellegrino Artusi's cook and housekeeper, Marietta Sabatini), to prepare piadina flour, water, lard, salt and a little yeast or alternatively two or three pinches of baking soda are required. At present, piadina is protected by the PGI mark.
Philone
Filone bread is an Italian yeast bread originating from the Calabria and Tuscany region. name strand comes from the Italian word Yarn, which means line, referring to the shape of the bread. It is characterized by its elongated, French baguette-like shape and slightly flat profile, with a crispy crust and a slightly airy core.
It is believed to have originated as an adaptation of rustic bread from the Tuscan countryside. And using a combination of white flour and whole wheat flour in the bread strand it is consistent with Tuscan baking traditions, where whole wheat flour was more commonly used than refined white flour.
Tuscan bread, including strand, is known for being unsalted, which is a unique feature compared to other Italian breads. This tradition is believed to have originated in the 12th century, when Pisa imposed a tax on salt, which led to the creation of salt-free bread in nearby regions.
Over time, filone bread evolved and spread throughout Italy and beyond, with bakers adapting the recipe according to local tastes and available ingredients. Today, loaves of bread are appreciated all over the world, often used as a base for sandwiches or as a garnish for soups and salads.
Cecina
It is present throughout Italy, but finds its official consecration in Liguria and wide spread in Tuscany. Of very ancient origins, cecína - Or flour, as it is called in the Ligurian language – seems to have originated in the Middle Ages, during the time of the Maritime Republics, during a naval confrontation that, not coincidentally, had Genoa and Pisa as protagonists.
Legend has it that during the Battle of Meloria, a cargo of chickpeas, the last remaining food resource on one of the Genoese ships, capsized and sank in salt water, forcing the crew to eat the unappetizing porridge, being able to add only a splash of oil. Later, however, someone had a flash of genius: they let the mixture dry in the sun, making it crispier and tastier.
Historical product
Truth or legend, cecìna is still prepared in exactly the same way today: chickpea flour, salt, water and olive oil, then the mixture is baked in a round, wide and shallow pan. The result is a thin and tasty savory pie, often seasoned with a generous dusting of pepper, that can be eaten on its own as a snack or as a filling in other dishes.
The consistency it should have cecína it's a matter of taste, depending on who eats it and who prepares it: some prefer it more cooked and crispy, others soft inside and fragrant outside, with a golden crust. It is often eaten as street food or for a quick lunch: the cost is very low, it is easy to eat and quick to prepare.
There are many other famous breads in Italy that are starting to cross the borders of local cuisines, such as Friselle, Semolina, Schiacciatina, Pane Toscano, Pane di Matera or Pan Nociato, and for gourmet enthusiasts it is one more reason to visit this world of taste and ancient traditions successfully integrated into the present.
Article and photo sources: Map of the Italian Pani: le eccellenze di cui andare orgogliosi, regione per regione; Bread in Italy – Types of Italian Breads & Where to Eat Them; La storia della Focaccia; La Focaccia: history, and various types of the classic recipe; The surprising story of ciabatta; Italian Ciabatta Was Invented To Compete With The French Baguette; Piadina Romagna: tutto su uno dei più famosi cibi di streeta; What is Filone Bread?
Article written by Gabriela Dan, Editor-in-Chief Arta Albă
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